Part 2A - Removing the Subaru Donor Engine

Removing the Subaru Donor Engine

Removing your Subie donor engine can be an exciting experience or a frustrating one. The following resources should help reduce the time required to complete the engine removal process. I hope that you will not let this step keep you from deciding to swap your engine. It is very manageable if you have all of the tools and do not rush.

Follow along as we show how to remove the EJ22 engine from a donor Subaru Legacy.

Overview and Approximate Time Needed :

Steps	Process Description	~ Time (min)
1	Remove hood, battery, and intake	40
2	Disconnect and label wires from engine	40
3	Disconnect throttle and brake cable	10
4	Disconnect coolant hoses and collect coolant	30
5	Remove power steering and A/C assemblies	60
6	Remove radiator fan	20
7	Remove exhaust	15
8	Free engine from crossmember	15
9	Extract engine	50
	* Approximate Total Time =	280

*When you factor in rest and prep time, a mechanically inclined person should reserve a half day to complete this process. For someone new to working on cars, this may take 2 days of hard work or 3 days of light work.

Tools you may need:

1. Metric socket set with extensions

2. Metric wrench set

3. Mechanic gloves

4. Needle nose pliers and channel locks

5. Wood hand clamp and rubber hose cutter

6. Metal shears

7. Pry bar and breaker bar

8. Coolant, Oil, gas storage containers, and catch basins

9. Shop towels

10. Engine hoist with appropriate rated chain

11. Engine stand

Engine Removal

Step 1: Remove the hood, air intake assembly, and battery

The battery and hood removal process should be straight forward.

1. Tools you may need for removing air intake assembly and disconnecting wiring. Pick, Socket Wrench with 5/16ths, 12mm, extension, breaker bar to reach tight area when removing L1(see slide 10).
2. Remove the hood using a 12mm (4 bolts)
3. Remove the airbox.
4. This is the Mass Air Flow sensor. You will need to keep this.
5. Loosen the clamps using a 5/16ths.
6. Air box and intake assymbly removed and set aside. You will need to keep these.
7. Label the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) using masking tape.
8. Your engine bay should now look like this. No more intake assymbly in the way.

Step 2: Disconnect and label wires going to the engine wire harness

The trick with the wiring harness is understanding the plastic connectors. If you study the pictures below, you should have a better idea of how the connector works. It may take a reasonable amount of force to separate the connector pieces, but if you take time to understand how the connector works and is designed to separate, you will save yourself a lot of energy and sore fingers.

9. Find these wire connections on the engine below the intake assymbly that was just removed. We will call this group L1.
10. Remove the group L1 from the engine and uplug (see next picture for a good tip).
11. We used some needle-nose pliers to help depress the tab which releases the male and female connector. (Be gentle, you need to keep these.)
12. Label both male and female group L1.
13. Find second group of engine harness connectors close to the other group and label L2.
14. This is the trick for unplugging L2. Use a pick or flat head screw driver to lift up tab shown.
15. Label both male and female connectors L2.
16. The last group of important wires connected to the engine is located on the alternator (green piece).
17. Remove these connectors from the alternator.
18. Label these ALT. You will need these wires.
19. Connected to the ALT wires is the air conditioning connector. Label this and save if you want AC.

Steps 3 & 4: Cables and Coolant

Don’t forget to save the throttle cable. It is not the end of the world if you have to cut the coolant hose to remove it, just try to make a clean cut nearest the end of the hose as possible. You will want as much hose as possible for when you design your new coolant system for the van. I found that it is easier to slide a used hose end over a steel pipe than a cut end due to the slight plastic deformation of the hose end. So, only cut the hose if necessary. In an attempt to dispose of used coolant properly, I called the local wastewater management utility and found that small amounts (1-2 gallons) can be dumped into the toilet safely. Check with your local utility to see what their system can handle.

20. Remove throttle cable using a 12 and 10mm.
21. Slide cable out of throttle body. Free the cable and set aside. You will need this.
22. Tools needed to drain and collect old coolant.
23. Under your car next to the oil pan is the coolant line which is connected to the water pump.
24. It helps to reduce flow by using a wood clamp. Position the catch pan under the hose. Use your 5/16ths rachet to loosen the hose clamp slowly allowing the coolant to drain.
25. Position catch pan under hose. Remove the top coolant hose from radiator.
26. Place catch pan underneath. Remove or cut the two heater hoses shown in center of photo.
27. Pliers can be helpful to removing clamps and loosening old hoses. Grip hose and try to twist off hose being careful not to damage hose or steel hose.

Steps 5 & 6: Remove Radiator Fans, Remove Fuel Lines, Remove Power Steering, and A/C

There should not be much fuel in the fuel lines, but try to catch what you can and properly dispose. Make sure there are no open flames when cutting the fuel lines, obviously. You may save the fuel lines for future use. Using a long extension, remove the A/C bolts that hold the compressor to the metal bracket on the motor. Take caution not to rupture an A/C line if the Subaru system is charged.

28. Remove radiator fans at this point to give you room to work.
29. Remove belt shroud.
30. Remove bolts that secure the power steering lines to the intake manifold(shiny tubular arches on right).
31. Loosen alternator (long bolt seen in picture) and remove belt. Remove the bolts that secure the power steering pump to the engine.
32. Power steering pump pushed to the side. Save this if you want power steering.
33. Unbolt the AC. The trick to removing these bolts is an extension.
34. Cut or remove the fuel lines. Make sure you save all hoses for future use. Please catch the fuel in a safe manner.
35. Cut and catch the charcoal canister lines as well. NOT SHOWN is draining the oil. DO NOT FORGET TO DRAIN THE OIL AND DISPOSE PROPERLY.

Steps 7 & 8: Remove Exhaust and Free Engine from Crossmember

Most likely when removing the exhaust, some studs may be in bad shape or begin to unscrew from the engine. No need to worry. These studs can be reused, as bolts, but are also cheap and can be purchased at an auto parts store (the size is M10-1.25 x 40.5mm). A breaker bar will make your life much easier for these steps.

36. Unbolt both sides of the exhaust manifold from underside of engine. Follow safe procedures when working under vehicles.
37. Remove bolts from rubber engine mounts. This will allow the engine to free itself from the crossmember. DO NOT UNBOLT CROSSMEMBER FROM CAR FRAME.
38. Removing the bolts from the rubber engine mounts.

Step 9: Extracting the Engine

We checked and double checked our rigging before we lifted the engine. Using lots of prying and manipulation, we were able to free the transmission from the engine. We had to pull the engine upward to clear the motor mount and exhaust studs, then outward parallel with the ground, until the motor released from the transmission. An engine stand was well worth the cost. It specifically helped when it was time for us to change the timing belt and engine oil seals.

39. Boxerswaps recommends renting a hydraulic hoist rated for over 1000 lbs. Read and follow the safety procedures for opperating the hoist.
40. Aren't you glad you removed the fans? Plenty of room to remove the engine.
41. Remove the bracket that once held the A/C compressor so that you may secure the hoist chain. Make sure the chain is properly rated for the engine load.
42. We secured the engine to the hoist chain by threading the previously removed bolt to the engine through a link in the chain. Make sure the bolt is securely threaded and is rated for the weight of the engine.
43. Here is the other secured hoist point we used.
44. This is our rigging setup.
45. Begin to raise the hoist until the slack in the chain is removed. This may keep the engine from falling while you remove the engine to transmission bolts.
46. Remove the starter. One of these bolts is the first of four that you will remove to free the engine from the transmission.
47. With the starter gone, now you can see the second bolt for removal. Be careful if you get under the car. Make sure the engine weight will be caught by the hoist in case of a fall.
48. The other two bolts are more obvious and can be accessed from the top of the engine bay. Use a prybar to seperate the engine from the transmission.
49. hoist the engine up, pry, jiggle, repeat until the engine is dislodged. Carefully hoist engine out and marvel at your future Vanagon heart.
50. Rent an engine stand and read the proper safety procedures for operation.
51. Secure the engine to the stand. CONGRATULATIONS! ENGINE IS PULLED!
52. If you have a 1995 Subaru or later, don't forget you have 2 Oxygen sensors to collect off the donor car.
53. Don't forget to remove the actual oxygen sensor as seen connected to the exhaust. In the next section, we will explain how to remove the wiring harness and other parts needed from donor car.

Conclusion:

This step goes quickly once you have experience but can be intimidating if you're new to the process. If you are new to engine pulls, just go slow - Take pictures and label things as you go. This step is very enjoyable and a lot of progress is made. The essential tool here is the engine hoist. It's easy to operate and much safer than other methods of engine removal.